As we age, our skin inevitably loses its firmness and smoothness, becoming duller and developing pigmentation spots. Additionally, due to moisture loss and a decrease in local immunity, its barrier functions are disrupted. These changes are genetically programmed: genes responsible for regeneration gradually become less active.

To reset our “genetic clock,” until recently, skincare products with retinol were required. Retinol is a potent antioxidant, a relative of vitamin A, and has been successfully used to address age-related hyperpigmentation and acne, reduce wrinkles, and firm the skin. However, retinol skincare is not suitable for everyone; in many cases, it irritates the skin. Moreover, retinol should not be included in daytime products due to its photosensitizing effects.

This is where bakuchiol comes into play. Bakuchiol is a natural, plant-based alternative to retinol. It offers similar benefits for skin rejuvenation without the common irritation associated with retinol. Additionally, bakuchiol can be safely incorporated into daytime skincare routines. It has become a buzzword in the world of anti-aging cosmetics, providing a gentler yet effective approach to maintaining youthful skin.

Fortunately, scientists have discovered another natural substance that benefits the skin just as positively and rejuvenatingly as retinol but without its side effects like burning, peeling, and unwanted photosensitizing effects.

This substance is bakuchiol (meroterpene phenol), derived from the plant Psoralea corylifolia, well-known in Ayurveda as bakuchi (babchi). Bakuchi powder has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine to treat skin inflammation, eliminate pigmentation spots, and enhance the natural radiance of the skin.

Advantages of bakuchiol:

– Antioxidant: Protects the skin from free radical damage and UV aging.
– Evens skin tone and addresses hyperpigmentation.
– Boosts collagen synthesis, improving skin elasticity and firmness.
– Enhances local immunity, soothes inflammation, and reduces acne.

Non-irritating to the skin, suitable for even sensitive skin types.
Bakuchiol is an essential ingredient in the rejuvenating Vit C+ line by Naturalis, Italy. The line includes facial cream and mask, as well as body and hand care products, designed for anti-aging skincare for all skin types. In the innovative formulas of the Vit C+ cosmetics, bakuchiol is combined with stabilized vitamin C, rare extracts from moth bean (Vigna aconitifolia), and sea daffodil (Pancratium maritimum). These products intensely restructure, renew, and brighten the skin, increase dermal elasticity, control epidermal renewal, and prevent unwanted pigmentation.

 

 

Ultra cream VITC+ Naturalis
Ultra mask VITC+ Naturalis
Ultra skin VITC+ Naturalis

 


 

The results of comparative studies demonstrate that bakuchiol and retinol equally reduce the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. However, bakuchiol is significantly better tolerated, while the use of retinol has been associated with reports of skin peeling and burning sensations on the face (1). In another study involving women over 60 with atopic and hypersensitive skin and signs of photodamage, after 4 weeks of using cosmetics containing bakuchiol, there were improvements in visual and tactile measures of smoothness, along with increased indicators of skin hydration. Participants in the study noted that the overall appearance of their skin became brighter, more even, and gave a more youthful impression (2). Genetic analysis confirms the similarity in the effects of retinol and bakuchiol on gene expression profiles (3).

(1) Dhaliwal et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):289-296.

(2) Draelos et al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020 Dec 1;19(12):1181-1183.

(3) «Volcano plots showed great overall similarity of retinol and bakuchiol effects on the gene expression profile. This similarity was confirmed by the side-by-side comparison of the modulation of individual genes, as well as on the protein level by ELISA and histochemistry. Retinol-like functionality was further confirmed for the upregulation of types I and IV collagen in DNA microarray study and also show stimulation of type III collagen in the mature fibroblast model.»
Chaudhuri R et al. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30.

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